Your Guitar on Laxatives: Fretboard Mineral Oil

Sometimes life takes you to CVS three minutes before closing, running up and down the aisles seeking laxatives for your guitar.

I had a dry, light-colored rosewood fretboard that it seemed could use a little treatment. Since I’ve been little there’s only been one thing you put on fretboards to condition, clean or “feed” them: lemon oil. But to be honest, I don’t like the way that stuff feels afterwards, how it always seems to manage to migrate to the back of the neck, and I had no need for its rigorous, alcohol-like cleansing properties. Putting something wet on your guitar is scary, so I did what I do, and vastly over-researched, rather than simply used the first of, the alternatives that came up. It turns out people are dumping all sorts of my-tech-swears-by-it home remedies into their fretboards. Among them:

  • Boiled Linseed Oil
  • Gunstock Oil
  • Bore Oil
  • 3-in-1 Oil
  • Olive Oil
  • Mineral Oil
  • Nose Grease
  • Old English Lemon Oil
  • Pledge™
  • Motor Oil

In addition to the many commercially available options, of course, like:

  • Fret Doctor
  • Fast Fret
  • Guitar Honey
  • Fretboard Juice

I’d like to save your time. Though opinions vary widely on how wise it is to use several of these substances on guitar necks, mineral oil emerges as the safest, simplest, cheapest option for worry-free fretboard oiling. (And we are talking oiling here, not cleaning; conditioning, darkening, protecting the wood.) Some love to treat their guitars to a nice virgin olive oil; others will counter that any such food-based liquid will eventually go rancid. Some have been happily using boiled linseed oil for years, nabbed from places like Home Depot; from other quarters you’ll hear how things like linseed oil and tung oil actually build up a finish, which might look nice and shiny but isn’t what you want to be doing to a fretboard. Even lemon oil, which in its instrument cleaning incarnation has nothing to do with lemons, it is said can actually dry out a fretboard once evaporated (and its solvents can possibly loosen your frets and inlays!) Mineral oil has no such cautionary tales. Like all these oils, though, it is not for use on maple fretboards, but unfinished dark woods like rosewood and ebony.

What to do:

  1. Remove your strings.
  2. Dab a little spot of mineral oil on a clean rag.
  3. Rub it into the fretboard.
  4. Let it sit 10 or 15 minutes.
  5. Rub off all excess with a clean, dry rag. Be thorough here.
  6. Restring when dry, optionally waiting overnight to be sure.

Where to buy it, where not to buy it

Most of those expensive little specialist snake oil bottles sold in music stores, including the ubiquitous “lemon oil”, are, in fact, largely mineral oil, plus some solvents and fragrance, and are certainly the most costly way to get the stuff. The least? That I could find: laxative. That’s when you find yourself at a pharmacy, buying a big bottle of intestinal lubricant for the sake of guitar maintenance, and you perhaps have to do a little stock taking.

It cost around $5 for a pint of what I assume to be, as it is sold for consumption by humans, high grade mineral oil. A pint! Like other fretboard treatments, you use a tiny dab on a cloth. That is going to last forever. For the sake of being able to look the cashier in the eye after bursting into the store as though this personal plumbing remedy was required with alarming urgency, I almost wimped out in favor of the less socially stigmatizing baby oil, which is simply mineral oil and fragrance. (In fact I showed up in a hurry because I’d learned only minutes before that mineral oil could be had at drug stores, and, ever impatient, wanted to grab some before they closed.) But no — I wanted the purest. The drinking type may be sold in one of the least pleasant sections of the pharmacy and suggest you are blocked up like a New Orleans storm drain, but the only additional ingredient it lists is Vitamin E. Pretty pure.

Does it work?

The actual effects of the stuff on dry rosewood were fair but, like most of these things, did not seem long lasting. Initially, yes, it darkened and sort of glossed the wood, but a month or so later it’s looking light and porous again. Just as light? I can’t say. In the very short term, one or two days, I was not sure I cared for the unexpected effect it had on tone, a bit of top-end damping and curtailing of resonance. While I freely admit I might have invented this psychosomatically as a worryer and overthinker, it would make sense: you’re blocking wood pores that were previously open and singing.

Crustier, wizened guitar players who have been around a while tend to show up in discussions of fretboard treatments like this and point out that they are unnecessary; that wood isn’t hungry or thirsty and need not be ‘fed’; that we do these things only for appearance, for ourselves, and the wood is fine just as it is, light or dark. I admit to prejudice, believing dark wood to be good wood. Excepting extreme climatic conditions, they’re probably right, and given that little jolt — “what have I done to the tone?” — and the short-lived benefit to the shade of the wood, I wouldn’t be in the greatest hurry to apply more of it, though it does seem by all accounts the most harmless of substances for this use. The warning label on the back does direct consumers to discontinue use if rectal bleeding occurs — advice I think it’s worth sticking to in this or indeed any other application.

20 Replies to “Your Guitar on Laxatives: Fretboard Mineral Oil”

  1. Great article. You saved me some time on research, and provided some humor with it. Thanks.

    1. I have learned that you should NEVER use lemon oil products on your fretboard as the citrus in it can be corrosive.

      1. You should never use lemon oil on fine furniture or antiques either.

  2. Very informative, does this apply to Maple fingerboards?

    1. Second large paragraph, last sentence in paragraph: “Like all these oils, though, it is not for use on maple fretboards, but unfinished dark woods like rosewood and ebony.”

  3. […] oil on fretboard? Eucalyptus oil, that's a new one. I once researched fretboard oiling for this post and found that people were using all sorts of strange liquids on their fretboards: Boiled Linseed […]

  4. […] And of course I can now do another thing : use a laxitive on my guitar. […]

  5. stupid question…on my unfinished jackson pc1 guitar with an unfinished neck ie raw sanded maple and flamed maple fretboard. looks very dry also would it b safe to use mineral oil on the fretboard to bring out the flamemaple look??

  6. I concur that rosewood does not need any oil except that which comes from the hands of the player. My most recent experience with mineral oil left my fingerboard feeling ganky and unpleasant. Every experienced repairman and luthier I’ve questioned concurred that oiling a rosewood fingerboard is unnecessary if it’s played on a fairly consistent basis.

  7. […] While Gibson recommends only cleaning the fretboards of regularly played guitars once or twice a year, if you notice that your fretboard is starting to feel dry and there’s build-up around the frets, it’s time for a cleaning. Mineral oil softens built up gunk and is an excellent treatment for dry fretboards. […]

    1. I have to concur– I *never* oil my fretboards, except from my fingers. I have more than a dozen guitars and my oldest one I’ve had for 45 years– it’s never seen a bottle of oil and is doing just fine… Then again, I play it often enough and don’t wipe it down with any kind of solvent that would remove oil. In fact, I wipe it rarely as well, they don’t seem to get particularly dirty, though do build up finger dirt from time to time– that’s where 000 steel wool does a decent job of cleanup. While the wood may not look as shiny as it might if it were oiled, for me, it’s not about the look but preservation and playability…

  8. Well, I guess it’s a well-kept secret WHAT KIND OF OIL TO USE ON MAPLE FRETBOARDS. Everything I read says “Do not sue on maple,” but nowhere does anyone say WHAT TO USE instead.

    I just bought a Charvel with a maple fretboard, and they simply say “clean and oil the fretboard when you change the strings.” They do not say what to use.

  9. Yes, I have a typo; “sue” instead of “use.” Hilarious.

  10. thats cause most of these nimrods never heard of or never use UN-laccored, unfinished maple.. like baked maple or the kind you get from very cheap guitars were the lacor quickly vanishes leaving you with raw wood or the occasional UN-finished uncooked maple fret board of certain specialty guitars…. Frankly just use Teak oil ….

  11. Nice article, it’s good to over think 🙂
    You have discovered what I suspected about fret-board oiling nice, saved me even more research. As an aside I did a similar level of research on oil for wooden chopping boards, primarily for an outdoor filleting table. I had seen other oils go rancid and it seems to be related to humidity but not sure on that. Anyway, the definitive answer was paraffin oil which is inert. Been using it on the outdoor filleting table for 5 years with no issues

  12. Also meant say that in Australia and probably elsewhere paraffin oil is sold as rain tank additive which sits on top and stops mosquito breeding. So 3 jobs, fret board, chopping boards and other wooden stuff and rain water. I researched for my Taylor GS mini and ended up buying boiled linseed oil, it’s ok but a bit smelly. I’ll be using paraffin oil or nothing from now.

  13. Great article-informative and funny!

  14. I’ve read multiple other places that plain mineral oil is fine for maple vs reading only 1 place that it’s not…here.

  15. I read somewhere that lemon oil – as in lemon-scented furniture polish – is simply scented mineral oil. In fact many people (including myself) use mineral oil as a cheap alternative to furniture polish. If the lemon oil described here is based on mineral oil, then the negative comments about it leaving a residue may be from additives. Anyway, this article was very helpful in letting me know that many use mineral oil. I think I will try it on a few of my inexpensive guitars and see how it does. Thanks

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